Our Trip was very enjoyable and Madhya Pradesh is full of history!

 Sampoorn MP Tour-EXPERIENCE

Authors Shanthi and Srikanth Rao
16-11-2023  
We left Bangalore at 6.00 AM and reached Mumbai at 8.00 AM. Had breakfast at Haldiram near the Airport arrival at Terminal-1. Collected the Tickets from Representative of Kesari Tours and Travels. Met a few members of the group and Boarded the Flight at 12.00 noon . Reached Gwalior around 2.00 PM.
Taxi was waiting for us to proceed directly to Batesara. Other group members left for the Hotel. Reached Batesara and directly proceeded to see the Ruins . This is a ASI Site and was founded by Sri Ahmed well known personality.

Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu temples are being reconstructed

Infosys Foundation headed by Sudha Murthy  helped by donating nearly Rs 6.00 Crores to develop and bring it back nearer to its original position. Work of restoring is going on. 

Since the State Assembly elections were held on the Seventeenth the tour leader decided to visit Gwalior Palace on the Sixteenth evening itself. We saw the Jayavilas Palalce situated within the city. Palace which explains how Scindia family was involved in developing Gwalior. It is known as the Chambal region.

Next stop was Parahi Gadwali where ancient scriptures from Ramayana has been depicted

17 -11-2023-  Tansen Tomb,  Birla Sun Temple, -   Gwalior Fort,  Rani Lakshmibai Samadhi.

Nearby Jai Hanuman was very interesting and nicely constructed below the railway track. Pooja was performed with pomp at the temple both in the morning and evening. We witnessed the same.

Visited Tansen Tomb Housed along with the memorial of the great Sufi saint Muhammed Ghaus which is the biggest in the complex, and can be mistaken to be that of Tansen’s.

Born with a speech impairment at Gwalior to a well-known poet in a Hindu family, was once a Hindu Vaishnavite too. When even at the age of five, he could not speak, the parents brought him to Muhammed Ghaus who not only bestowed on him the power of speech but became his guru. The tamarind tree in the complex is as old as this tomb. Great musicians and people with speech disorders eat this leaf with the faith that they will also be able to sing as good as him!

Proceeded to Sun Temple in Gwalior, built in red sandstone and interiors in sparkling white marble. Three entrances to the sanctum, one main and two at the sides. Each entrance door has idols of the the Navagraha’s. Photography was not allowed.

 Also called Vivaswan (synonym of Surya) Temple.  Birla Sun Temple, a replica of the famous Sun temple in Konark. Foundation stone laid in 1984 by G.D. Birla and construction completed in 1988. Spread over 20,500 square feet, built as the horse chariot of the Sun God, with seven horses drawing the chariot and the reins in the hands of the Sun god. 24 wheels of the chariot, 12 on each side. Each wheel has 16 spokes, 8 thick, and 8 thin spokes. The 7 horses depict the days of the week, 24 wheels depicting no of 15 days duration in a year. Each year can be divided into 24 groups of 15 days each. Some believe that 24 wheels represent 24 hours of a day unlike what’s mentioned at the temple. Each wheel, beautifully engraved,  is like a sun clock with the time between any two consecutive spokes being 1.5 hours. 

Visit to Fort

Constructed to honour a sage named Gwalipa. Said to have existed since the 6th century; several structures built during the course of history. ASI looks after the fort now Stands on a vast rocky hill named Gopachal. Originally built in sandstone and lime mortar. Was sieged and captured by many rulers in the past.

Fort construction associated with a legend. Exact date of  construction  unknown as no historical records or evidences. Legend a local king named Suraj Sen ruled this region in 3 CE, he couldn’t be cured of leprosy. When he lost all hopes, a sage named Gwalipa miraculously cured the disease by asking the king to drink water from a sacred pond ( believed that the present pond inside the fort is the same one). The king decided to build a fort to honour the sage and also named the city after him. The sage conferred the king with the title ‘Pal,’ meaning protector, and promised him that his descendants would rule over the fort as long as they bear the title ‘Pal’. After this incident, many descendants of Suraj Sen Pal ruled over the fort but his 84th successor, Tej Karan, lost possession of the fort. 

Though inscriptions within the fort indicate that the fort must have been standing here from the 6th century, certain evidences suggest it existed from the late 9th cen. Teli ka Mandir’, a Hindu temple said to be built by the Gurjara-Pratiharas. From 10th cent onwards, the fort was ruled over by the kings of the Kachchhapaghata dynasty.

History of the Fort

Around the 10th cent, many Muslim rulers tried to capture the fort. Mahmud of Ghazni besieged it in 1022 CE, but  lifted the siege when presented with 35 elephants - Qutb al-Din Aibak, the first Sultan of the Delhi Sultanate, captured it in 1196, lost it – Iltumish recaptured in 1232 CE. Around 1398,  captured by the Tomars and  remained with them for long. Raja Maan Singh Tomar constructed several structures within the fort. Sikander Lodi failed to recapture in 1505, but his son Ibrahim Lodi succeeded in 1516, which resulted in the death of Raja Maan Singh Tomar. Then taken by Babur, the founder of the Mughal dynasty. Mughals lost it to Sher Shah Suri, in 1542. In 1558, Mughal Emperor Akbar recaptured it and turned it into a prison, where he executed his prisoners and rivals.

Post Aurangzeb’s reign, the Mughal Empire weakened - loss of the fort, now captured by the Rana chieftains of Gohad. Mahadaji Shinde of the Scindia dynasty captured it from Gohad Rana Chhatar Singh but lost it to the British. In 1780, the British gave away the fort to the Ranas, in exchange for their support during the Sepoy Mutiny in the 18th cent. Marathas then captured it from the Ranas, but lost it to the British during the II Anglo-Maratha War. The British then largely controlled the fort and sometimes even gave up its ownership to the Scindia family for political reasons. In 1886, after capturing the whole of India, the British gave the fort to the Scindias, as it was of little importance to them at that time. The Scindias then ruled over the fort and even came up with their own structures within the fort, until it was finally taken by the government of India post-independence.

Layout of the Fort  

Spreads over 3 square km (741.3 acres), surrounded by concrete walls of sandstone. Divided into five parts. Each part  named after the direction in which it lies. 2 main gates : Elephant Gate and the Badalgarh Gate. The Elephant Gate or the ‘Hathi Pol’ lies in the southeast and leads to the Man Mandir palace. On the southern side of the fort, stand an impressive set of temples (21 in number), dedicated to the Jain Tirthankaras. Other significant structures include the Karan Palace, the Jahangir Mahal, the Shah Jahan Mahal and the Gujri Mahal.

Temples within the Fort

Siddhachal Jain Temple Caves – Many idols of Jain Tirthankaras  carved inside caves and on rocks. Carved during the period of 7th to 15th cent, tallest is the Rishabhanatha or Adinatha at 58 feet 4 inches.  II tallest 35 feet height is Suparshvanatha.  Idols on the Gopachal Hill are more than 1500  many of which are carved on the rocks.  Carved during the reign of Keerti Singh and Dungar Singh of the Tomar dynasty. One such idol of Bhagwan Parsvanath is 42 feet (height) and 30 feet (width). Many destroyed by the Mughal emperors when they captured the fort.   Teli-ka-Mandir –most famous of all temples within the Gwalior Fort. Built in the Dravidian architectural style, notable for its generously sculpted exterior. The temple is the oldest part of the fort and houses Buddhist architectural elements as well. Originally housed Vishnu as its main deity, now has Shiva.   Sas-Bahu Temple – Two pillared temples that stand next to each other, one larger than the other. Originally, there was only one temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Was frequently visited by the queens of the Kachchhapaghatas. Later, another temple dedicated to Lord Shiva was built next to this temple, so that the daughter-in-law of the king, who was an ardent Shiva devotee, could worship her favorite deity

Garuda Monument – Next to the Teli ka Mandir, built to honor Lord Vishnu, is the highest point of the fort. Indo-Islamic architectural style. Chhatri of Bhim Singh Rana –Dome shaped pavilion built by Chhatra Singh as a memorial to his father. An artificial lake next to the pavilion, also built by Chhatra Singh who took over the fort after defeating the Mughal Satrap Ali Khan.

Scindia School –exclusively for the prince and princesses of the Scindia family, built by Madho Rao Scindia in 1897, after the British handed over the fort to the Scindias. Gurdwara – Memorial to Guru Hargobind, the sixth Sikh Guru. There are no significant evidences to prove when and by whom the Gurdwara was built. Presently the School is managed by Scindias giving good education.

4. Samadhi of Rani Lakshmi Bai

Offering Prayers at the Samadi

5. Jaivilas Palace  Built by Maharaja Jayaji Rao Scindia (ruled 1843-1886) ,inspired by European architectural styles and was built as a modern, western alternative to the old Hindu and Islamic palaces contained within the Gwalior hill-fort.  Was also constructed to celebrate Prince of Wales’ visit  in 1876.  Designed by Lt Col Sir Michael Filose in a classically inspired style incorporating Doric, Tuscan, Corinthian and Palladian elements, and  built of sandstone painted white. Is a structural manifestation of Maratha power and grandeur in North India.

On March 10, 1945, when Yuvraj Madhavrao Scindia was born in Bombay Maharaja Jiwajirao Scindia arranged for a special train to take the new Prince back to Gwalior. Later when HH Madhavrao was going to be married his baraat returned from Delhi to Jai Vilas Palace by the same siding train that had brought Yuvraj Madhavrao to the palace as a baby.

18 Nov  2023  Travelled 105 kms from Gwalior to Jhansi Fort .Jhansi to orchha covered a distance of 19 kms.

JHANSI FORT

Jhansi fort (15 acres)  shows North Indian style of fort construction different from South where most forts were built on the sea beds like the Bekal Fort in Kerala. The granite walls of the fort are between 16 and 20 feet thick and on the south side, the city walls meet. Ten gates give access to the fort : Khanderao, Datia, Bhanderi Gate(Rani Laxmi bai escaped from this gate in 1857 battle), Unnao , BadaGaon, Laxmi, Sagar , Orchha , Saiyar  and Chand Gates. Notable sights: Shiva and Ganesh temples at the entrance, Kadak Bijli cannon used in the uprising of 1857. The British added a floor to Panch Mahal. The Rani Mahal, built in the later half of the 19th century now is an archaeological museum.

The construction ascribed to the Bundela Rajput chief and the ruler of the Kingdom of Orchha, Veer Singh Deo Bundela in 1613. In 1728, Mohammed Khan Bangash attacked Maharaja Chattrasal. Peshwa Bajirao  helped Maharaja Chattrasal defeat the Mughal army. As a mark of gratitude, Maharaja Chattrasal offered a part of his state, which included Jhansi, to Peshwa Bajirao.

 In 1842 Raja Gangadhar Rao married Manikarnika Tambe who was given the new name of Lakshmi Bai. She gave birth to a boy, later named Damodar Rao, in 1851, who died after four months. The Maharaja adopted a child called Anand Rao, the son of Gangadhar Rao's cousin, who was renamed Damodar Rao, on the day before the Maharaja died. The adoption was in the presence of the British political officer who was given a letter from the Maharaja instructing that the child be treated with respect and that the government of Jhansi should be given to his widow for her lifetime. After the death of the Maharaja in November 1853, because Damodar Rao (born Anand Rao) was adopted, the British East India Company, under Governor-General Lord Dalhousie, applied the Doctrine of Lapse, rejecting Damodar Rao's claim to the throne and annexing the state to its territories. In March 1854, Lakshmibai was given an annual pension of Rs. 60,000 and ordered to leave the palace and the fort. In June 1857 the revolt broke out and she took control of the fort and led Jhansi forces against those of the British East India Company. View of the Palace and aerial view of Jhansi City is depicted.

 Jhanasi to Orchha we covered a distance of 19 kms and it lies on the Betwa River. Manager arranged Lunch at Hotel Sarovar. The ambience was very nice.

JAHANGIR PALACE

Exclusively built by Bir Singh Deo in 1605 to humor the Mughal emperor Jahangir who was a guest of the Maharaja for one night only. Mughal architecture, Rectangular base, circular towers in corners surmounted by a dome, while two lines of graceful balconies supported on brackets mark the central storeys. The front east facing wall covered with turquoise tiles. Roof has eight large fluted domes, with smaller domes between them, connected by an ornamental balustrade. Four levels with architectural features of both Muslim and Rajput architecture, symmetrical square, built in the inner courtyard of the fort. Many rooms with arcaded openings, projecting platforms and windows with lattice design work.  A small archaeological museum also inside.  Jahangir’s mother, Mariam-uz-Zamani, was a Rajput princess, that’s why the Rajput king of Orchha built the Jahangir Mahal. The entrance gate leads to the royal baths and then to an small sub palace, built within a garden in typical Mughal architectural style: the Pravin Rai Mahal, built for Rai Parveen, the female escort of the Raja Indrajit; her large-size portrait in a revealing and seductive attire adorns hall in this Mahal. A poet and musician, known as the Nightingale of Orchha. The building is a double-storied structure built with bricks. Also known as 'Tope Khana' since later in time, it was used as a lookout post for Orchha Fort.

The Unth Khana (Camel Shelter) where the King's camels were stationed is right next to the fort, a must-see. The ruins behind the fort complex are an even greater sight. It makes a tourist travel back in time and is an integral part of a visit to Orchha. It houses the residences of various military officers, ministers (housing, roads), gunpowder factory, etc.

The Raja Mahal (King's Palace), kings and queens resided till it was abandoned in 1783, built early part of16th century. Has several secret passages. Simple exterior, but the interior chambers elaborately royal in their architectural design, decorated with murals of social and religious themes of gods, mythical animals, and people. In the upper floor of the palace, traces of mirrors in the ceilings and walls. Its windows, arcaded passages, and layout plan are designed in such a way that the "sunlight and shadow create areas of different moods and temperatures throughout the day". The interior walls of the Mahal have murals of Lord Vishnu.

A part of this Mahal converted into a temple and named Rama Raja Temple in honour of the god Rama. The Ram Raja Temple built on a square base, plain exterior,projecting windows and a line of delicate domes along the summit. According to a local legend, the temple was built following Rani Ganeshkunwari, the queen getting a "dream visitation" by Lord Rama directing her to build a temple for Him; while Madhukar Shah was a devotee of Krishna, his wife's dedication was to Rama. Following this, a new temple known as the Chaturbuj Temple was approved to be built, and the queen went to Ayodhya to obtain an image of Lord Rama that was to be enshrined in her new temple. When she came back from Ayodhya with the image of Rama, initially she kept the idol in her palace as the Chaturbuj Temple was still under construction. She was, however, unaware of an injunction that the image to be deified in a temple could not be kept in a palace. Once the temple construction was completed and the idol of the lord had to be moved for installation at the Chatrubhuj Temple, it refused to be shifted from the palace. Hence, instead of the Chaturbhuj Temple, the Rama's idol remained in the palace whereas the Chaturbhuj Temple remained without an idol in its sanctum. Is the only shrine in the country where Rama is worshipped as a King. The temple is guarded by a police force and the deity, Lord Rama, is considered as the king and is given a gun salute of honour every day.

Reached KHAJURAHO  in the evening and stayed at Ramada Hotel. Very nice ambience and good food.

19 Nov 2023 

KHAJURAHO

Khajuraho temples built during the Chandela dynasty which reached its apogee between 950 and 1050. Distributed over 6 sq km in Chaatarpur dist in MP, 23 temples (including one partly excavated structure) that form the western, eastern, and southern clusters of the Khajuraho Group of Monuments are rare surviving examples of Nagara-style temple architecture.

The art and architecture involved in the construction of Hindu Temples is well defined in the Shilpa Shastra. It mentions three main kinds of temple architecture in India: Nagara or the Northern Style, Dravida or the Southern style and Vesara or the Mixed style.

The defining features of a Nagara style are Garbhagriha (Sanctum Sanctorum), Shikhara (Curvilinear tower), and Mandapa (Entrance Hall). The Nagara style developed gradually as the earlier temples had only one Shikhara, while the later temples were constructed with multiple Shikharas and the Garbhagriha can always be found under the tallest tower.

The first mention of Khajuraho and its temples is in the accounts of Abu Rahyan al Biruni ( 1022 CE) and Ibn Batuta (1335 CE). The temples were said to have been spread across 20 square kilometres and there were around 85 temples in the 12th century- reduced to just 20 today. Carvings predominantly about Hindu deities and mythology, architectural style follows Hindu traditions (faces east, carvings reflect the four goals of life in Hinduism, viz, dharma, kama, artha, moksha).Erotic imagery very common, found in the Kandariya Mahadeva and Vishwanath Temple, reflect the idea of female beauty and fertility. Other scenes depicted on the walls of the temples are a part of the Narathara (the human life cycle) signifying how sexual procreation and kama are an essential aspect of human life.

 It is believed that the temples constitute five different sets of sculptures: cult images, the parivara, parsva and avarana devatas, the apsaras and the surasundaris, secular sculptures of miscellaneous themes (dancers, musicians, disciples and domestic scenes), creatures (vyalas, sardula and other animals)

No written texts describing the construction of the temples exist today. A few stories revolve around their history:

1) Were a part of the proliferation of the Siva-Sakti cult. 2) Were a representation of the devadasis who were once a major part of the temple activities. The most beautiful women were brought from Magadha, Malwa and Rajputana to be trained as devadasis. People say that the Surasundaris, who cover the interior and the exterior walls of the temples, were taken from real life and juxtaposed with the sculptures of Gods and Goddesses. 3) Sculptures represent the life-cycle of a normal human being.

The Temples divided into three groups: the Western, Eastern and Southern Groups. Architecture is very complex, main components of these temples are:

The Garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum) with antarala, a narrow ante-chamber

The Maha Mandapa, a large hall

The Ardha Mandapa and a mandapa, which are smaller additional halls

The Pradakshina Path, a circumambulation path.

A few temples at Khajuraho are of the Panchayatana type, with four shrines dedicated to the divinities and often another shrine in front of the portico dedicated to the vahana (vehicle) of the principal deity.

Built of light-coloured sandstone imported from the quarries of Panna, from the east bank of the Kane River. Iron clamps freely employed in the construction. Few smaller temples  built partly of sandstone and partly of granite.

Western Group of Temples -Situated on the west of the Bamitha-Rajnagar road on the banks of Sib-Sagar.6 major edifices dedicated to the Shaivite and Vaishnavite cults.

1) Chausath Yogini Temple -Stands on the low rocky eminence to the south west of the Sib-Sagar Lake. Only temple in Khajuraho built entirely of granite and is oriented north-east and south-west. There is no dated inscription to show the precise age of the temple.

2) Kandariya Mahadeva Temple -

Largest of all temples, dates to 10th century CE, 109 feet high and 60 feet wide, entrance in the shape of an arch and has figures of deities and musicians. Has an open passage around the sanctum, thus forming a high altar. Walls have nearly 900 images. Also,  entrance of the sanctum has floral carvings interspersed with figures of ascetics engaged in penance. The female figures at the base of the jambs identified as Goddess Ganga (River Ganga) and Goddess Jumna (River Yamuna), accompanied by their respective vehicles, the crocodile and the tortoise. Inside the sanctum stands a marble Linga . There are also numerous figures of apsaras or nymphs in all sorts of delicate postures.

3) Devi Jagdamba Temple - ~ 77 feet in length and 50 feet in breadth. Originally believed to have been dedicated to Lord Vishnu – placed in centre of the entrance to the sanctum, Lord Shiva and Lord Brahma to the right and left. Inside the sanctum, a four-armed female figure holding lotus flowers and  one of Goddess Laxmi (consort of Lord Vishnu. Based on some inscriptions found assumed  temple built in  10^th or 11^th century when the Chandelas ruled. A figure of Yama lies on the south side of the sanctum while one of Lord Shiva (eight handed and three headed) on the lower niche.

4) Chitragupta or Bharatji’s Temple -Faces east ,75 feet length and 52 feet breadth. Dedicated to the Sun God (Surya), image of Sun God within the sanctum 5 ft long, wearing high boots and driving a 7-horses chariot. See another image of the Sun God  over the entrance. See an eleven-headed image of Lord Vishnu in the central niche to the south of the sanctum, central head of Vishnu and remaining of his incarnations. No inscriptions on the temple, so period of its construction cannot be defined.

5) Vishwanath Temple - 90 feet height, the entrance of the sanctum Shiva seated on Nandi . Lord Brahma on his vehicle (the Goose) and Lord Vishnu on the Eagle to the right and left. Inside the shrine is a lingam and inside the mandapa are two Sanskrit inscriptions engraved on stone slabs. The larger one to the left is dated Vikrama Samvat of 1059 or 1002 CE, gives an account of the genealogy of the Chandela kings from King Nannuka to King Dhanga. According to the inscription, the temple was built under the supervision of King Dhanga who dedicated it to Lord Shiva by installing a Linga with an emerald placed inside it.

6) Laxmana Temple -Also known as the Chaturbhuj Temple ~ 99 ft length and 46 ft breadth, probably built ~11th cent CE. Popular for innovation in architecture. Ornate bands began to be of the Apsaras. A torana at the entrance,  ceiling of the mandapa or nave relieved with ingenious devices of cusped and coffered circles. Sanctum entrance - Goddess Laxmi along with Lord Brahma and Lord Shiva.

Eastern Group of Temples -situated close to the village of Khajuraho. The complex comprises 3 Jain temples: Ghantai, Adinath and Parsawanatha. and 3 Hindu temples: Brahma, Vamana and Javari.

1) Brahma Temple- On the banks of Khajuraho Sagar, believed that the chaturmukha image inside the sanctum can possibly be of Lord Shiva but has been mistaken by the local worshippers for one of Lord Brahma. Center of lintels of the sanctum and west windows - Lord Vishnu. One of the few temples constructed both of granite and sandstone. Probably built ~ latter half of 9th or  earlier half of  10th century CE.

2) Vamana Temple -North-east of  Brahma Temple, ~ 63 ft length and 46 ft breadth, stands on an exceptionally high platform. Inside the sanctum 5 ft Lord Vamana, figures of the incarnations of Vishnu carved in its framework along with a figure of Lord Brahma in bhumisparsa-mudra. The upper row round the sanctum portrays Brahma with his consort on the south and Vishnu with his consort towards the north. The lower row contains the images of Varaha, Narasimha and Vamana.

3) Ghantai Temple -Bells suspended on chains which adorn the pillars of the portico, pillars have bands of horned heads (kirtimukha) , ascetics and gandharvas. 11 naked statues of  Jaina Tirthankaras and two Yakshinis. Above the entrance 8 armed Jaina Goddess riding on Garuda and holding various weapons. Each end of the lintel has a figure of a Tirthankara. 9 figures in the left denote Navagrahas.  Temple ceiling has panels of groups of musicians dancing and playing on instruments. The space above the lintel has elephant, bull, lion, Lakshmi, garland and other auspicious objects which the mother of Mahavira, the founder of Jainism, saw in her dream before his birth.

4) Parsawanatha Jain Temple -The largest of the Jaina temples, 69 ft long and 35 ft wide. Shrine of 22nd Jain Tirthankara.  A naked male figure on the left of the door and a naked female figure on the right, with three seated female figures over the centre. Above the entrance is a ten-armed Jaina Goddess holding various arms and weapons riding on a garuda. Two other goddesses, riding respectively on a goose and a peacock, are carved at the ends of the lintel. Inside the temple, is a small seated figure of Parsawanatha On the jambs of the door are three short records of pilgrims in characters of the 10th or 11th century-  most probable date of the temple origin.

Southern Group of Temples - 2 temples, the Duladeo and the Jatkari temple.

1) Duladeo Temple -1.5 miles away from the main Khajuraho temples and originally dedicated to the Siva cult. Measuring 70 ft high and 41 ft wide, has five chambers. Unique set of carvings consisting of an effigy of the 4-armed Gana and a conch shell. Probably built around the 10th cent CE.

2) Jatkari or Chaturbhuja Temple -Situated near the Jatkari village, west facing, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, ~ nine feet tall image of deity inside. 4- armed Lord Vishnu - upper right hand of the image raised in benediction (abhaya-mudra) which bears a circular mark on the palm while the left hand holds a stalk of a lotus and a sacred book tied with a string. The outer portion of the sanctum is decorated with three rows of sculptures representing Hindu Gods and Goddesses.

20 Nov –

Travelled 225 kms from Khajuraho to Bandhavgarh . We reached late in the evening and rested. The place of stay is known as Three Leaves. Ambience was good. We were allowed shopping and purchased T-Shirts for the Children at bndhavgarh. 

 21 Nov-

 Went to Jungle safari  in Bandhavgarh early morning around 5.30 AM. We could not see any animal. We took a chance by taking Night Safari which commences from 7.00PM to 9.30 PM. It was our bad luck that we could not locate any animal. The Night safari experience was unique and felt scared at times due to darkness . Weather was comfortable. Photos of our Lodge and travelling in the Jeep has been depicted.

 22 Nov-

Travelled a distance of 165 kms  from Bandhavgarh to Jabalpur. Rajasthani delicious Lunch was served at Hotel Trio. Proceeded to see Bhedaghat (Grand Canyon of India).

Boat ride to see marble rocks – 100 ft high rocks on either side of the Narmada river. Gorge in Bhedaghat has been known to serve as a home for wild colonies of bees, the hives of which can be seen from the river Narmada. O Basanti pavan pagal shot here. Bobby, climax of pran jaye par vachan na jaye shot here. The Boatman explained the rocks beautifully

Dhuandhar waterfalls – 98 ft high, also will see Shivaling established by Ahilyabai Holkar.  64 Yogini Temple and 'Bandar Kudini', a spot where two cliffs are so close to each other that monkeys hop over from one side to another . Known for soapstone artefacts.

 23rd Nov

Travelled 250 kms  from Jabalpur to Pachmarhi. Stayed in Hotel Indraprastha. Free time was available in the evening. Went for shopping .

24 Nov-   Commenced local visit in  Pachmarhi. Bee Falls – not advisable for kids and elders  as the place is very slippery.

Pachmarhi, aka Satpura ki Rani ,  a hill station situated at a height of 1067 m in a valley of the Satpura Range in the Narmadapuram district. Dhupgarh, the highest point (1,352 m) in MP and the Satpura range, is located here, a part of the Satpura Biosphere Reserve. Also famous for the Satpura Tiger Reserve, Satpura National Park, Lord Shiva and the Pandavas of Mahabharata.  Pachmarhi's forests are home to numerous cave paintings, some of which are estimated to be 10,000 years old. timber reserves, including teak, but due to its status as a reserve, no new construction or tree felling is permitted. Has a diverse and rare flora and fauna, requires central and state government approval for any new construction outside of the town limits. Railways were using teak wood trees for sleepers for the Railway Tracks. Subsequently the technology was improved and Railways started using Concrete Sleepers instead of  Wooden sleepers. Hence cutting of trees stopped.

Discovered by Captain Forsyth while heading the Bengal Lancers in 1857. Since then became the summer capital of the Central Province and a sanatorium. The first British lodge was set up in Panchmarhi in 1962 and the remnants of the colonial era are still to be seen in the colonial style cottages and buildings that are sprinkled all over.

 23rd Nov  --Travelled 250 kms  from Jabalpur to Pachmarhi. Stayed in Hotel Indraprastha. Free time was available in the evening. Went for shopping .

 24 Nov-   Commenced local visit in  Pachmarhi. Bee Falls – not advisable for kids and elders  as the place is very slippery.

Pachmarhi, aka Satpura ki Rani ,  a hill station situated at a height of 1067 m in a valley of the Satpura Range in the Narmadapuram district. Dhupgarh, the highest point (1,352 m) in MP and the Satpura range, is located here, a part of the Satpura Biosphere Reserve. Also famous for the Satpura Tiger Reserve, Satpura National Park, Lord Shiva and the Pandavas of Mahabharata.  Pachmarhi's forests are home to numerous cave paintings, some of which are estimated to be 10,000 years old. timber reserves, including teak, but due to its status as a reserve, no new construction or tree felling is permitted. Has a diverse and rare flora and fauna, requires central and state government approval for any new construction outside of the town limits. Railways were using teak wood trees for sleepers for the Railway Tracks. Subsequently the technology was improved and Railways started using Concrete Sleepers instead of  Wooden sleepers. Hence cutting of trees stopped.

Discovered by Captain Forsyth while heading the Bengal Lancers in 1857. Since then became the summer capital of the Central Province and a sanatorium. The first British lodge was set up in Panchmarhi in 1962 and the remnants of the colonial era are still to be seen in the colonial style cottages and buildings that are sprinkled all over. 

Pandav Gufa – 5 rock cut caves that give Pachmarhi its name. As per legend, Pandava brothers stayed here for some time after their exile from the kingdom. The biggest cave is said to be of Bhima. Each of these caves was named after the Pandava brothers.

As per ASI, that the cave paintings date back to Gupta period during 9 – 10^th cent AD. Buddhist monks made these caves as their living place during this time. Even stupa laid during the same period.

Priyadarshini / Forsyth Viewpoint This vantage viewing point marks the place from where Pachmarhi was discovered by Captain James Forsyth in 1857. One can get a beautiful view of the entire Pachmarhi valley and especially Handi Khoh from here. The entire place has hills rolling on each other and surrounded by clouds and mist, the entire scenery is worth enjoying. Also, it is an ideal place to see the sunset in the majestic Satpura Range. 

Handi Khoh View Point

At a distance of 5 km from Pachmarhi Bus Station, Handi Khoh is a deep valley located in Pachmarhi.. One of the most spectacular ravines in Central India, and among the best places to visit in Pachmarhi. Surrounded by verdant forests and hills, Handi Khoh is a V-shaped ravine that is 300-feet deep and is constituted by two massive hills in the middle of a dense forest. The place has a mythological history and is believed to be closely associated with Lord Shiva. It is believed that once it was a huge lake but the devilish snake who was guarding the lake was destroyed by the fury of Lord Shiva and the event dried up the lake and it took the shape of a handi(pot). Famous for its quaint serenity and its old-world charm, the canyon now serves as a natural abode for many floral species.

Temples: Bada Mahadev, Gupt Mahadev

Bada Mahadev is one of the ancient temples in Pachmarhi  dedicated to Lord Shiva. According to mythology, Bada Mahadev Cave is the place where Lord Vishnu killed Demon Bhasmasura taking the form of Mohini. The cave is about 60 feet long and houses the idols of Lord Brahma, Lord Vishnu, and Lord Ganesha along with a Shivalinga. It can only accommodate one person to get through the cave at a time and is wider around the place of worship. Water keeps dropping through the walls of the cave and there is a pool in the center which is frequented by pilgrims during Nag Panchami and Maha Shivaratri as bathing in the pool is supposed to wash off one's sins. A flashlight would always come in handy while visiting this narrow cave.

 Gupt Mahadev is quite an interesting and mysterious spot near Pachmarhi where spirituality meets adventure. The cave is narrow and meandering, only 7 to 8 people can get inside at a time and one has to walk sideways through the 40 feet winding pathways to reach the centre of the Shiva shrine where the lingam is worshipped. Lord Ganesha also inside and Lord Hanuman Statue at the entrance. Descend 150 steps to reach the temple entrance. 

 25 Nov – Travelled   from   Pachmarhi   to   Bhopal. Earlier it was planned to visit Bhimbetka and Bhojpur .  Because of festival at Sanchi on 26^th Nov  it was decided by Tour Manager  to visit Sanchi on 25^th itself.  Pachmarhi to Sanchi was almost 150 kms . We reached Sanchi  in the afternoon.

A number of stupas seen all within a few miles of Sanchi, including Satdhara (9 km to the W of Sanchi, 40 stupas, the Relics of Sariputra and Mahamoggallana, now enshrined in the new Vihara, were unearthed there.

The Great Stupa / Stupa 1 ,oldest structure and originally commissioned by Ashoka the Great of the Maurya Empire in the 3rd century BCE. Its nucleus was a hemispherical brick structure built over the sacred relics of the Buddha with a raised terrace encompassing its base, and a railing and stone umbrella on the summit, the chatra, a parasol-like structure symbolizing high rank. The original Stupa only had about half the diameter of today's stupa, which is the result of enlargement by the Sungas during 2^nd cent BCE. It was covered in brick in contrast to the stones that now cover it. No artistic reliefs as such though some are visible on the stairway balustrade, but they are probably slightly later than those at Stupa No2, and are dated to 125–100 BCE. Some authors consider these reliefs, rather crude and without obvious Buddhist connotations, are the oldest reliefs of all Sanchi, slightly older even than the reliefs of Sanchi Stupa No.2.  

A pillar (Pillar of Asoka, 42 ft tall) of finely polished sandstone ( transported from the Chunar quarries in UP on the Ganga) was erected on the side of the main Torana gateway. The bottom part of the pillar still stands, upper parts at the nearby Sanchi Archaeological Museum. The capital consists of four lions, which probably supported a Wheel of Law, as also suggested by later illustrations among the Sanchi reliefs. The pillar has an Ashokan inscription (Schism Edict) and an inscription in the ornamental Sankha Lipi from the Gupta period. The Ashokan inscription is engraved in early Brahmi characters. It is much damaged, but the commands it contains appear to be the same as those recorded in the Sarnath and Kausambi edicts, which together form the three known instances of Ashoka's "Schism Edict".

Stupa 2 established later than the Great Stupa, but probably displays the earliest architectural ornaments. For the first time, clearly Buddhist themes are represented, particularly the four events in the life of the Buddha that are: the Nativity, the Enlightenment, the First Sermon and the Decease.  Decorations called "the oldest extensive stupa decoration in existence", and this Stupa is considered the birthplace of Jataka illustrations. 

Stupa 3, railing around it and staircase  built during Shunga period. The Relics of Sariputra and Mahamoggallana, Buddha’s disciples, are said to have been placed in Stupa No. 3, and relics boxes were excavated tending to confirm this.

Proceeded to Bhopal in the evening and Halted. This hotel  Restaurant had a very peculiar entry which is situated  in the Fiest Floor. The entry was through the lift.

26 Nov--Travelled from Bhopal to Bhojpur  which is around 30km.

Bhojpur, a town that houses  around 7.5 feet high shivlingam in its sanctum. It is believed that the construction of the temple was commenced during the reign of Paramara King Bhoja.

Bhojpur (also called Morel Khurd, a fortified hilltop with 60 stupas) .

After visit to Bhojpur proceeded to Bhimbetka before noon.

The Rock Shelters of Bhimbetka, declared a World Heritage Site in 2003, are in the foothills of the Vindhyan Mountains on the southern edge of the central Indian plateau, within massive sandstone outcrops. They span the Paleolithic and Mesolithic periods, as well as the historic period.  Exhibit the earliest traces of human life on the Indian subcontinent, and thus the beginning of the South Asian Stone Age. The site contains the world's oldest stone walls and floors. Consists of seven hills and over 750 rock shelters distributed over 10 km. At least some of the shelters were inhabited more than 100,000 years ago. Bhimbetka is closely associated with a hunting and gathering economy as demonstrated in the rock art. The cultural traditions of the inhabitants / adivasis of the twenty-one villages adjacent to the site bear a strong resemblance to those represented in the rock paintings.

Cave paintings dating back to approximately 30,000 years. Out of the 760 rock shelters, 500 are adorned with paintings. Some rock shelters feature prehistoric cave paintings and the earliest are dated to 10,000 BCE, corresponding to the Indian Mesolithic. These cave paintings show themes such as animals, early evidence of dance and hunting from the Stone Age as well as of warriors on horseback from a later time (perhaps the Bronze Age).

 The painting of an enormous red bison attacking a man is visible only when the sun is just right. 243 rock shelters that were home to humans millennia ago and contain the oldest known rock art in India, as well as is one of the largest prehistoric complexes to be seen.  The paintings found in the rock shelters have a striking resemblance to the ones discovered in Kakadu National Park in Australia; to the cave paintings of Bushmen in Kalahari Desert and Upper Palaeolithic Lascaux cave paintings in France. Thousands years old art gallery hides amongst the massive, black boulders of Bhimbetka.

Legend says Bhimbetka is derived from 'bhimbaithka' meaning 'the sitting place of Bhima', from Mahabharata. One village is named Pandapur while Bhiyapura is believed to be derived from Bhimpura. Legend says that the Lakhajuhar forest was once the wax (lakh) palace of the Pandavas.

 V. S. Wakankar classified the drawings and paintings into seven different periods and dated the earliest paintings to have belonged to the upper Palaeolithic to be as early as 40,000 years ago. The colours used are vegetable colours which have endured through time because the drawings were generally made deep inside a niche or on inner walls.

Period I – (Upper Paleolithic): These are linear representations in green of humans dancing and hunting.

Period II – (Mesolithic): Comparatively small in size the stylised figures in this group show linear decorations on the body. In addition to animals there are human figures and hunting scenes, giving a clear picture of the weapons they used: barbed spears, pointed sticks, bows and arrows. Some scenes are interpreted as depicting tribal war between three tribes symbolised by their animal totems. The depiction of communal dances, birds, musical instruments, mothers and children, pregnant women, men carrying dead animals, drinking and burials appear in rhythmic movement.

Period III – (Chalcolithic) Similar to the paintings of the Mesolithic, these drawings reveal that during this period the cave dwellers of this area were in contact with the agricultural communities of the Malwa plains, exchanging goods with them.

Period IV & V – (Early historic): The figures of this group have a schematic and decorative style and are painted mainly in red, white and yellow. The association is of riders, depiction of religious symbols, tunic-like dresses and the existence of scripts of different periods. The religious beliefs are represented by figures of yakshas, tree gods and magical sky chariots.

Period VI & VII – (Medieval): These paintings are geometric linear and more schematic, but they show degeneration and crudeness in their artistic style. The colors used by the cave dwellers were prepared by combining black manganese oxides, red hematite and charcoal.

One rock, popularly referred to as "Zoo Rock", depicts elephants, barasingha (swamp deer), bison and deer. Paintings on another rock show a peacock, a snake, a deer and the sun. On another rock, two elephants with tusks are painted. Hunting scenes with hunters carrying bows, arrows, swords, and shields also find their place in the community of these pre-historic paintings. In one of the caves, a bison is shown in pursuit of a hunter while his two companions appear to stand helplessly nearby; in another, some horsemen are seen, along with archers. In one painting, a large wild bovine (possibly a gaur or bison) is seen.

27Nov– Travelled 195 kms from Bhopal to Indore via Ujjain. Reached Ujjain in the afternoon. Visited Ujjain Corridor and proceeded to temple Maha Kaleshwar. Ujjain is on the banks of River Kshipra

The idol of Mahakaleshwar is known to be dakshinamukh. This is a unique feature, upheld by the tantric shivnetra tradition to be found only in Mahakaleshwar among the 12 Jyotirlingas. The idol of Omkareshwar Mahadev is consecrated in the sanctum above the Mahakal shrine. The images of Ganesh, Parvati and Kartikeya are installed in the west, north, and east of the sanctum sanctorum. To the south is the image of Nandi, the vehicle of Shiva. 

The temple complex was destroyed by Iltutmish during his raid of Ujjain in 1234–35. The Jyotirlinga was dismantled and believed to be thrown into a nearby 'Kotiteerth Kunda' (a pond neighbouring the temple) with the Jaladhar (a structure supporting the Lingam) stolen during the invasion. The Maratha Empire regime was established in Ujjain in the 4th decade of the 18th century. The administration of Ujjain was assigned by Peshwa Bajirao-I to his faithful commander Ranoji Shinde, the Diwan of Ranoji was Sukhatanakar Ramchandra Baba Shenavi who was very wealthy he decided to invest his wealth for religious purposes. In this connection, he re-built the Mahakaleshwar Temple during the 4th and 5th decades of the 18th century.

According to the Puranas, the city of Ujjain was called Avantika and was famous for its beauty and its status as a devotional epicenter. It was also one of the primary cities where students went to study holy scriptures. According to legend, there was a ruler of Ujjain called Chandrasena, who was a pious devotee of Shiva and worshiped him all the time. One day, a farmer's boy named Shrikhar was walking on the grounds of the palace and heard the King chant the Shiva's name and rushed to the temple to start praying with him. However, the guards removed him by force and sent him to the outskirts of the city near the river Kshipra. Rivals of Ujjain, primarily King Ripudamana and King Singhaditya of the neighboring kingdoms decided to attack the Kingdom and take over its treasures around this time. Hearing this, Shrikhar started to pray and the news spread to a priest named Vridhi. He was shocked to hear this and upon the urgent pleas of his sons, started to pray to Shiva at the river Kshipra. The Kings chose to attack and were successful; with the help of the powerful demon Dushan, who was blessed by Brahma to be invisible, they plundered the city and attacked all the devotees of Shiva.

Upon hearing the pleas of His helpless devotees, Shiva appeared in his Mahakala form and destroyed the enemies of King Chandrasena. Upon the request of his devotees Shrikhar and Vridhi, Shiva agreed to reside in the city and become the chief deity of the Kingdom and take care of it against its enemies and to protect all His devotees. From that day on, Shiva resided in His light form as Mahakala in a Lingam that was formed on its own from the powers of Shiva and his consort, Parvati. 

Sri Bade Ganesh Ji Ka Mandi rests along the Mahakaleshwar reservoir. It is said that this Ganesh idol was established by Maharishi Guru Maharaj Siddhant Vagesh Pt. Narayan Ji Vyas. The Ganesh idol is about 18 feet high and 10 feet wide and the trunk of Lord Ganesh in this statue is clockwise. There are a trident and swastika on the head of the statue. A Ladoo is pressed into the trunk rotating to the right. Also a beautiful statue of Panchmukhi Hanuman in the center of the temple and is said that this idol was established even before the establishment of Bade Ganesh.

Harsiddhi Mata temple. It is believed that Emperor Vikramaditya  brought Harsiddhi Mata to Ujjain. Emperor Vikramaditya who ruled for 135 yrs asked Harsiddhi Mata to go from the village of Mian near the original Dwarka to Ujjain, then Goddess Harsiddhi Mata told Vikramaditya that she would stay in Ujjain at night  and in Gujarat during the day. She is the Kuldevi of the Parmar dynasty kings.

Even today, in one corner of the temple, 11 vermilion-covered heads are kept. It is said that they are the ‘heads of Vikramaditya’.

Seated between the idols of Mahalaxmi and Mahasaraswati, the idol of Annapurna is painted in dark vermilion color. The Sri Yantra, the symbol of power or shakti, is also enshrined in the temple. According to the Shiva Purana, when Shiva carried away the burning body of Sati from the sacrificial fire, her elbow dropped at this place. There is an interesting legend in the Skanda Purana about the manner in which the Goddess Chandi acquired the epithet of Harsiddhi. Once when Shiva and Parvati were alone on Mount Kailash, two demons Chand and Prachand tried to force their way in. Shiva called upon Chandi to destroy them which she did. Pleased, Shiva bestowed upon her the epithet of ‘one who vanquishes all’. The temple was reconstructed during the Maratha period and the two pillars adorned with lamps are special features of Maratha art. These lamp pillars, 51 ft tall,  established by King Vikramaditya and are more than 2000 yrs old.  Beautiful bungalows at the entrance; an ancient stepwell in the south-east near the bungalow, inside which there is an artistic pillar. Here is the place made of Shree Yantra. Behind this place is a beautiful statue of Bhagwati Annapurna. Near the east gate of the temple is the Saptsagar (Rudrasagar) pond which is also known as Rudrasagar.

Kal Bhairav temple located on the banks of the Shipra River, The present-day temple structure built over remains of an older temple. The original temple is believed to have been built by an obscure king named Bhadrasen. It has been mentioned in the Avanti Khanda of the Skanda Purana. Images of Shiva, Parvati, Vishnu and Ganesha belonging to the Paramara period (9th-13th century CE) have been recovered from the place. The temple walls were once decorated with Malwa paintings. However, only traces of these paintings are visible now. The present-day temple structure shows Maratha influence.. Liquor is offered to the temple deity as one of the five tantric ritual offering  known  as panchamakara: madya (alcohol), maansa (meat), meena or matsya (fish), mudra (gesture or parched grain) and maithuna. Today only liquor offered. During the 2016 Ujjain Simhastha, the state government banned liquor sales in Ujjain for a month, but allowed the shops in front of the temple to sell alcohol.

While returning to Bhopal visited Dr. Ambedkars birth place and touched the line of Tropic of cancer. We watched the Morning Aarathi through video for 10 minutes. It was a wonderful darshan of Lord Mahakaleshwar-Viboothi pooja.

 27 Nov – Travelled  from Indore to Mandu and Mhow and back to Indore

Jahaz Mahal  is an ancient palace located inside the Mandu Fort. This double-storeyed palace is encircled by twin ponds Munj and Kapur that give an impression to the spectators that it seems to be floating gently above the surface of the water. The 120 m long and 15 m wide palace has open pavilions, an open terrace, and balconies. Was built during the reign of Mandu Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din Khilji, who is believed to have as many as 15,000 women as his consorts. To accommodate the women belonging to the royal consortium, Jahaz Mahal was built in second half of the 15th century. It best captures the medieval history of Mundu. the palace is an amalgam of Afghan, Mughal, Hindu and Mesopotamian architecture styles. It was built with a meticulous precision that followed acoustic water supply patterns, subtly reflecting the pond that lies overlooking the palace. The balconies are constructed in a way that amplifies sound such that reverberates through the entire body of Jahaz Mahal. The last royal visit to the palace was paid by Mughal emperor Jahangir and his favourite wife Nur Jahan in 1617, who described the experience as " a wonderful assembly".

Baz Bahadur Palace is situated on the hill slope to the east of Rewa Kund and is set amid picturesque greenery. This palace was actually built far before Baz Bahadur came into power. As per the Persian inscription on the entrance arch, it was built in 1508 by Nasir-ud-Din, the Sultan of Malwa. Incidentally, Nasir-ud-Din Shah Khilji is credited with designing this aesthetic structure which underwent repairs and renovations during the period of Baz Bahadur. The King became fond of this palace because of his eternal romance with the accomplished singer Roopmati who used to visit the nearby Rewa Kund, a reservoir built by Baz Bahadur.

With the blend of Rajput and Mughal style of architecture, the main gateway to the palace is approached by 40 broad steps. Tall, sleek arches welcome the visitors at the entrance to this twin-storeyed palace. In its days of glory, an aqueduct ran on top of the arches, transporting water from Rewa Kund to the pool in the palace courtyard. Also, the palace consists of a spacious courtyard with halls and rooms on all four sides and a beautiful cistern in its middle. Baz Bahadur held court in these halls between 1555 and 1561. The palace terrace is further adorned with a couple of chhatris or elevated domed pavilions. One of the big rooms, that even today has astounding natural acoustics, served as the music and dance hall of the palace.

Bayezid Baz Bahadur Khan the last Sultan of Malwa Sultanate, reigned from 1555 to 1562. Succeeded his father, Shuja'at Khan, known for his romantic liaison with Roopmati.

As sultan did not bother to look after his kingdom nor did he maintain a strong army, being devoted to the arts and to his paramour. He fell in love with the beautiful Hindu shepherdess called Roopmati and also built the Rewa Kund, a reservoir equipped with an aqueduct to River Narmada. Mughals defeated him and captured his Hindu queen Roopmati, who killed herself at this turn of events. In 1561, Akbar's army led by Adham Khan and Pir Muhammad Khan attacked Malwa and defeated Baz Bahadur in the battle of Sarangpur on 29 March 1561. One of the reasons for Adham Khan's attack seems to be his lust for Rani Roopmati. Rani Roopmati poisoned herself upon hearing of the fall of Mandu. Baz Bahadur fled to Khandesh. Later he regained control of Malwa for some time. In 1562  Akbar sent another army led by Abdullah Khan which finally defeated Baz Bahadur, who fled to Chittor. Malwa was absorbed by the Mughals, with Baz Bahadur becoming a fugitive at various courts for a number of years. In November 1570, he surrendered to Akbar at Agra and joined his service.

Rani Roopmati Pavilion was built as an army observation post but it served a more romantic purpose as Roopmati's retreat! If history is to be believed, this building was erected because Rani Rupmati, a very beautiful Hindu singer had supposedly caught the interest of Baz Bahadur. So, Baz Bahadur using all his clout and wealth built this magnificent piece of architecture to showcase his love for her. It is constructed on the banks of river Narmada because it is believed that Rani Rupmati was so much in awe of the river that she would not even drink water unless she saw the Narmada river. This place is still squeaky clean as the earlier times.

Photostop at Bhim Janmabhoomi- Mhow This place took 13 years to build. The work started in 1994 and ended in 2007, inaugurated on 14 April 2008, 117th birth anniversary of Ambedkar The stupa -like structure is a memorial dedicated to Babasaheb Ambedkar who was born here on 14 April, 1891. It stands where his father’s official quarters used to be when he served in the British Indian army.

Mhow houses three premier training institutions of the Indian Army; The Infantry School, The Military College of Telecommunication Engineering (MCTE) and The Army War College. Mhow is where Army Training Command or ARTRAC was born. ARTRAC was based in Mhow from 1991 to 1994, before it shifted to Shimla.

 29 Nov  Travelled  80 kms from Indore to Omkareshwar .

Omkareswar Temple  situated in the Mandhata city (also known as Omkareshwar) in Khandwa district on Mandhata or Shivpuri island, 4 km long and 2.6 sq km in area, on the banks of Narmada and Kaveri river (a tributary of Narmada).

Adi Shankara's Cave – Omkareshwar is said to be the place where Adi Sankara met his guru Govinda Bhagavatpada in a cave. This cave can be found even today just below the Shiva temple where an image of Adi Shankara has been installed.

As per Hindu legend, Vindhya, the deity controlling the Vindhyachal mountain range was worshipping Shiva to propitiate himself from the sins committed. He created a sacred geometrical diagram and a Lingam made of sand and clay. Shiva was pleased with the worship and believed to have appeared in two forms, namely Omkareshwar and Amaleswara Owing to the huge crowd of sages and devotees who came to visit him, Lord Shiva split himself into two on either side of the river Narmada. Since the mud mound appeared in the form of Om, the island came to be known as Omkareswar. This is the reason why the Amareshwar jyotirlinga is also known as a Parthivlinga. There is a shrine for Parvati and Ganapati in the temple.

The second story relates to Mandhata and his son's penance. King Mandhata of Ikshvaku clan (an ancestor of Ram) worshipped Shiva here until the Lord manifested himself as a Jyotirlinga. Some scholars also narrate the story about Mandhata's sons-Ambarish and Muchukunda, who had practiced severe penance and austerities here and pleased Shiva. Because of this, the mountain is named Mandhata.

The third story from Hindu scriptures says that once upon a time there was a great war between Devas and Danavas , in which Danavas won. This was a major setback for Devas and hence Devas prayed to Shiva. Pleased with their prayer, Shiva emerged in the form of Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga and defeated Danavas.

Mamaleswar Temple also known as Amleshwar or Amareshwar temple. Situated right opposite the Omkareshwar temple on the southern bank of the Narmada River, near the Gomukh ghat. Widely believed that a pilgrimage to Omkareshwar isn't complete without paying obeisance to Mamleshwar temple as it is believed to houses half of the 4th Jyotirlinga, the other half being in Omkareshwar Temple. According to folklore, the Mamleshwar is the Shiva lingam built by the Pandavas during their exile from the Mahabharata era.
Maintained by ASI, the Mamleshwar temple is located in a beautiful ancient temple complex surrounded by spotless small shrines dedicated to various gods and goddesses, adorned with carvings and sculptures. The temple is spread over a smaller area that covers a hall and a sanctum. 22 brahmins performed the Lingarchan rituals daily in this temple since the reign of Maharani Ahilyabai. However, now the number of Brahmins has been brought down to just 5. Around 1000 Shivalingas are planted on a wooden board to perform the daily rituals. The temple walls are adorned with the Mahimna Strotam inscriptions. Here devotees are allowed to worship by touching the Jyotirlinga. The idol of Goddess Parvati is also present behind the Shivaling. A Nandi Mandap outside the main temple is worth noticing.

Maheswar Palace

Holkar fort this was the opulent palace of Rani Ahilyabai Holkar which the reason why it is also known as the Queen's fort. This fort was also the administrative headquarter of Rani Ahilyabai during her reign and currently it has been converted into a guesthouse, which is managed by the son of the last Maharaja of Indore, Prince Shivaji Rao Holkar.

This palace is the zenith of the Maratha architecture. To add to this, the palace is also host to a weaver's cooperative society in its premises. 

 29Nov--We commenced last leg of our trip visiting City  Indore,

Lal Bagh Palace Resided by the rulers of the Holkar dynasty , area of 28 acres An example of architectural magnificence, once contained one of the best rose gardens in the country.
Situated on the banks of River Khan, 3.2 km. away from the main city. The construction had begun during the time of Tukoji Rao Holkar in 1886, and completed 35 years later, by his successor Tukoji Rao Holkar in 1921. Residence of the ruling Holkar dynasty till 1978,  now more of a museum, that keeps some of the most exquisite artifacts of the Maratha Empire and the Holkar dynasty intact, apart from a rare coin collection, which dates back to the Mughal period.The interiors has a myriad mixture of Italian marble columns, grand chandeliers, rich Persian carpets, flying nymphs on the ceiling, Belgium stained glass windows, Greek mythological reliefs, Italian style wall paintings, stuffed leopards, and tigers etc.

Rajwada Palace constructed by the Holkars more than 200 years ago, is a seven-storied structure. constructed in 1747 A.D. by the founder of Holkar Dynasty, Malhar Rao Holkar. The palace was once the centre of all the trading activities in the city. Rajwada has been burnt three times since its construction. The lower three floors of the palace are made up of stone, while the top levels are made of wood. This kind of material used for construction made the building very vulnerable to destruction by fire. It was set on fire for the first time in 1801 by the commander Sarjerao Ghadge of the Sindhiya Dynasty. Reconstruction took place between 1818 and 1826, and five floors were reconstructed during this time. In 1834, a second fire took place, and the topmost floor was destroyed. The last fire, which broke out in 1984, had caused the maximum destruction to the structure and the back side of the palace was destroyed entirely. The temple of Malhari Martand, which is located inside the palace, was also wholly ruined during the riots of 1984.

 Jain temple--Visited Jain temple. Very posh temple with statue of Mahaveer Jain. The walls are made of glass photography was not allowed

Central Museum

Visited Central Museum and completed the viewing very briskly. After this last visit of the tour proceeded to Hotel. After having lunch went to Airport to catch the flight to Mumbai and then on to Bangalore.

We commenced  the tour on 16^th  by travelling to Mumbai by Indigo. We met some of our tour friends at Mumbai Airport. We left for  Gwalior around 12.00 noon and reached at 14.00 hrs. We had booked a Cab to proceed directly to Batesara to see the old monuments which was destroyed. The same is being restored with the help of Infosys Foundation.

 We met the other 21  Group members in the evening at Gwalior Palace. After the visit We checked in at our Hotel. Sri Abhishek Manager had visited many Foreign Countries as a Tour Manager and collected perfumes/scents as it was his passion.Every day morning and afternoon  he used to  apply different type of scents to all of us to keep afresh. We commenced our tour on 17^th morning and time fixed to be at Bus 9.00 AM. We went at 9.03 AM and all of them clapped and welcomed us for fun. We developed good rapport with most of the members during our trip.Sri Anil was very friendly and started sharing the photos.He was very helpful to us. Sri Karkale and Sri Mahajan also became very friendly.

 Mrs Savitha Mahajan entertained us with her short poems instantly preparing on the spot. Sri Soman and his wife had brought their Son Swaraj who gave us good inputs on the places. Swaraj was a sweet boy and enjoyed the tour. He was looking forward to go to Bhandavghar to see Lion. We also had a lively company of Mr and Mrs Patel, Mr and Mrs Joshi, Mr and Mrs Prakash, Mr and Mrs Kamath and other friends in the group.  Nine people in this group finished their tour at Jabbalpur (Second photo) and 11 fresh people joined us (First Photo). In this five people are from one family . (Four sisters and One Brother-They were named Panch Family. They did not bring their spouses.). We completed the tour on 30^th at Indore. We took a flight to Bangalore via Mumbai. We had memorable tour covering ancient architecture, Palaces, Forts, Safari trip and Piligrimage places. We celebrated Abhishek Birthday at Jabbalpur by cutting cakes. Tour Managers arranged Anthkshari ( Songs, Poltician Names, Historians and Vegetables.

 Tour Manager Sri Omkar deserves special appreciation as he was arranging Jain Food for us at all the locations. He was organising coffee and Tea according to our requirements at all the locations. He was friendly and helping all the Senior Citizens for climbing up and down the steps.Both Mnagers arranged the programme  meticulously and  planning was good. Our Kudos to them.

Finally our appreciation for  driver Suresh Singh and Cleaner Anand. He drove  nearly 2000 kms from Gwalior to Indore. Anand protected our valuables which we had kept in the Bus during our visit to Forts, Palaces etc.